It is a juicy hamburger stuffed with decadent, velvety foie gras—like a gigantic beef ravioli nestled on fluffy brioche. It sits on a bed of crumbled feta and is topped with a ribbon of kefteri cheese and pickled onions. It is the filet mignon of burgers, and it is just the tip of the iceberg at Cavo—Astoria’s premiere restaurant, complete with garden, lounge and club.
For years, Cavo has been serving elevated Mediterranean cuisine in one of the most sophisticated dining rooms this side of the Hudson—and the current menu is certainly no exception. A front bar splits off to additional seating areas on the side, before opening up to a vaulted dining room with giant cloth-covered chandeliers. Beyond that, steps descend into a sunken garden with waterfalls and foliage cascading down two-story walls.
Cavo showcases a lovely blend of favorite dishes primarily from Greece and Italy intermixed with accents from all over the world—under the direction and expertise of Omari Dacosta, most recently of Danny Meyer’s barbecue hot spot, Blue Smoke. Dacosta has also worked in the kitchens of Trestle on Tenth, Pera Mediterranean Brasserie, and Red Rooster in Harlem.
At Cavo, the Greek influences are certainly the most pronounced. Ravioli is stuffed with Greek cheese and arrives under a blanket of creamy feta with white truffle essence. Exceptionally tender octopus is charcoal grilled with lemon and extra virgin olive oil, presented simply, yet still an outstanding dish. Jumbo lump crabmeat is forked into hearty cakes, and stacked with fennel shavings and celery root puree.
A watermelon salad sings with tomato and feta, and jumbo shrimp arrive wrapped in phyllo dough. Entrees range from plates of pasta loaded with fresh seafood, to an artichoke feta risotto, Chilean sea bass, and even a filet mignon with lemon potato gratin.
Desserts are equally sublime. A granita of strawberries sits on a Greek yogurt panna cotta, dressed with shavings of lime zest. Nutella crepes are stuffed with walnut banana compote.
Cocktails range from Cavo’s famous sangria, to a cucumber basil Collins or lychee martini. Sweeter spirits range from a chocolate martini to a sparkling raspberry watermelon diva martini.
From start to finish, dining at Cavo will leave you wanting to return. Perfect for an intimate weekday dinner or a weekend evening of dancing, there’s a little bit of something for everyone.
42-18 31st Avenue, Astoria
Open daily at 5 p.m.
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