Tunisia is a small country, smaller than New York State, but as we drove through the country on our 12-day adventure, we experienced its beauty, heritage and hospitality.
As a country surrounded by Algeria and Libya, Tunisia has set a modern, western agenda.
Our eighth day was spent in the southwest part of the country so we could visit the mining town of Matloui and then went eastward to Gafsa and finally Sbeitla, an impressive antiquity site.
At Sbeitla, we walked through the remarkably-preserved ancient Roman temples, baths and theatre.
In the drab town, suddenly, I saw these stunning relics from the first century. The government has done a good job restoring much of the site. The theatre was rebuilt so that in the summer it can be used as a concert space. We entered the complex through a charming grove of mimosa trees and a field of yellow and purple flowers. The area had been sustained by the olive groves that still furnish a living for the local people.
I was struck by the multi-columned temple that stood on high ground towering over the surrounding ruins and almost glowing in the light of the day.
We had a buffet lunch at the Hotel Suffetula, with a stunning view overlooking the ruins from its terrace and inviting swimming pool.
We were set to spend the night in Kef at the Hotel Kelil to visit additional historic sites in the morning, but the hotel was awful. They didn’t put on the lobby lights until we arrived. This is where a good guide and good tour company are imperative.
Our guide Moez from TunisUSA Tour Group called the office and they got us a room in Tunis, our final destination. It is a two-hour drive, and our driver was willing to continue north. I was both relieved and grateful that we didn’t have to spend the night in that depressing hotel.
The drive back to Tunis took us through several of the last farming towns. Each of the town centers had a similar look as the ones I saw in India and China – two-story buildings with small stores on the first floor and living areas above are the norm. Each store is individually owned, with some selling necessities like fruit and meat. The butcher shop had sides of beef and lamb hanging outside next to cafés and coffee houses. The roads are rustic but that evening we got on the motorway to Tunis.
Our last two nights were spent in Tunis. The day’s pouring rain deterred us from visiting the historic ruins in Beja, but we did get to have lunch in the finest restaurant in Tunis, Dar El Jeld. Its grand, bright yellow arched doorway opens into an elaborate 18th century mansion. It’s like stepping into a lavishly-decorated jewelry box.
Our table was set with crystal goblets and beautiful porcelain dinner plates. The menu featured dishes famous in Tunisia. It was a singular meal that was well worth the wet walk through the markets to reach this gem!
Our boutique hotel, the Tunisia Palace, was perfectly situated on the main Boulevard Bourguiba. It’s within walking distance of the old market (Medina) and sidewalks filled with multiple cafés with street side tables offering a view of the people passing. Interestingly, very few women wore head covers, in keeping with the westernized attitude of the country.
Although Tunisia is not on many Americans’ “must go to” list, I think it should be. Check out the country where our dollar is strong, the people friendly and the sites historic. I recommend our tour company, which provided excellent guides, drivers and itinerary. TunisUSA and the American owner, Jerry Sorkin, can be reached at 888-474-5502.
Next week, last stop – Lyon, France
